Wednesday, September 7, 2011

Oy, Vey!

I don't mean any disrespect with this title, but I know that whomever reads it would know that we visited the Jewish Quarter today.  We decided on a self-guided audio tour being offered by the local Jewish Museum society.  We walked through three synagogues, an ancient cemetery, a Ceremonial Hall (where they prepared the dead for burial), and what used to be the Jewish ghetto.  Unfortunately, we were limited in our picture taking because cameras were not allowed inside.

It was a fascinating tour of Jewish history in Prague, probably not unlike the devastating history of the Jews in many eastern European countries.  It just gives you the chills...

We followed up this tour with lunch at a pizzeria on what I called the "Rodeo Drive" of Prague (Gucci, Prada, and Tag Hauer shops lined the street).  Good pizza, a Czech beer and we were happy, happy again.

We walked back to Old Town Square and decided to visit yet another church, Our Lady of Tyn.  There must have been a contest back in the 13th century challenging various architects and designers on who could build the most elaborate, ornate, and yet beautiful church!  Again, we were not allowed to photograph inside the church but, take my word for it, the altar and chapels were breath-takingly beautiful.

We took some time to purchase a few Czech mementos and Linda and I enjoyed our first Czech absinthe; not a drink you'd want to have too many of.  I think I grew some chest hairs!

While I nursed my angry knee, Linda, Julieanne and Christopher walked across the St. Charles bridge and had dinner at Cervenova Restaurant where they reported a grand view of the city.

Tomorrow we fly to Paris to join the rest of the Broads Abroad so we must get our beauty sleep.  Signing off for now, I bid you good night and sweet dreams.




Big Broad

King of The Hill

When was the last time you visited a castle? Well, we did that yesterday and, WOW, is it impressive!  I don't want to get into too much boring history but it should be mentioned that this castle has been the Czech government seat since the 9th century.  This place has been the home of kings, queens, popes, presidents, prime ministers, and even the communists who ruled not so long ago.

The castle grounds are enormous and, located on top of a hill, loom over the city (the entire place is lit up at night so it is very hard to miss).  There are a series of homes and gardens around the castle square; and the main entrance features a gorgeous gilded iron gate.  Inside the Prague Castle we found more buildings (the newer ones around the perimeter house several ministries and governmental offices) as we made our way to St. Vitus' Cathedral.  It contains the tombs and relics of most importance to Czech people: local saints and kings.  It is,  to say the least, awe inspiring.  We meandered through gold-leafed statues, ancient paintings, a shiny solid silver tomb and more private chapels than I could count.  Every corner I turned yielded more rich frescoes and altars.It was quite the scene and a little Da Vinci Code-ish.

Other great places at the castle were: the royal palace (we stood in the actual coronation room of kings from the 11th century!); St. George's Basilica (a former nunnery) with it's recently unearthed tombstones dating back to the 9th century; Golden Lane (a narrow road containing original buildings depicting life as it was in medieval days); and, last but certainly not least, breathtaking views of the Vltava River, the St. Charles Bridge, and the entire city of Prague.  It was pretty amazing!

One of our favorite parts was a quick tour through the medieval prison.  This tower featured several torture machines and cages.  There were head vises, leg-breaking contraptions, body stretching beds, and lots of iron arm and leg shackles.  You can just imagine the pain that must have occurred in that place; it hurts just writing about it!

A short taxi ride back to the hotel (one aching knee was pretty pissed off) and we were back at our local hangout place drinking Budvar.  Yep, all was right with the world.

One more day until Paris.  But first, we honor Jewish heritage.
Until tomorrow... bon soir!
Big Broad

Tuesday, September 6, 2011

Kutna Hora and the Skeletons

Big Broad here, coming to you from the fourth story of The Tri Bubnu Hotel.  As promised, today's post is about our road trip adventure in the lovely Czech Republic.  We took a tour bus to Kutna Hora, a charming little town of 20,000 sitting atop of what was once the largest silver mine in all of Europe.

Our guide was this spry, tiny Czech woman who knew more about medieval history than she had time to share it with us; but she tried her best.  Our tour started at the Sedlec Bone Church.  This little church looks like any other old church on the outside (cemetery included) but when you walk inside you realize just how special it is.  The bone remains of 40,000 people decorate the walls and ceilings! Yep, you read that right.  About 400 years ago it became necessary to find a place for the many skeletons of the victims of 14th century plagues and 15th century wars.  Artists were commissioned to decorate the interior of the church with these grizzly materials.  Consequently, there is a bone chandelier, a bone coat-of-arms, four bone pyramids and other assorted bone structures within the walls of this tiny church.  All of us were awed but a little creeped out by the scene.  Thankfully, we didn't spend much time there.



We were then taken to a well preserved center of town and given a very fast-paced walking tour.  We saw buildings originating from the 12th and 13th centuries, a beautiful monument commemorating the end of the plagues, a 15th century stone fountain that was used as a fresh-water holding tank, and two or three small churches in various stages of renovation.  We had lunch in the courtyard of an extremely old building (the food was authentic Czech fare that Linda will have to describe to you on another occasion).

The last stop was, to me, the most impressive: we were taken to St. Barbara's Cathedral.  This cathedral was founded in 1388 by the silver miners and named for their patron saint.  The elaborate interior depicted the town's riches and importance within the kingdom.  There are beautiful frescoes, stained glass windows, carved wood altars in several chapels, as well as 17th century pews, a stunningly beautiful altar, and impressive pipe organ.  We hope the pictures give you a glimpse of just how amazing this cathedral is.

The tour bus brought us back to town and we decided to dine at the Brazilian restaurant by our hotel.  The food was delicious, the drinks were fabulous, and the dessert and coffee was a nice ending to another wonderful day in old Praha. And, yes, all was right with the world.

Tomorrow we get the royal treatment; dobro noc (buenas noches to you).

Monday, September 5, 2011

Big Broad reporting from Praha, Czech Republic:




We had an auspicious beginning to our trip with Air France changing our seat assignments at the last minute and then, adding insult to injury, "misplacing" our luggage.  The check-in agent was trying to do us a favor by sending our bags all the way through from Los Angeles to Prague without us having to claim them in Paris (our one layover).  Instead the bags were lost and that screwed us up royally.  Note to self: do not change the plans you made 8 months ago!  Once we got to Prague and found our missing driver (he was upstairs, we were downstairs at the airport) w got to our hotel.  Julieanne's brother, Christopher, joined us from Germany; we found a patio bar (Cafe Kafka), ordered cocktails, and all was right with the world. 

On Sunday we walked around the old town square.  Julieanne used 7 of her 8 gigs of camera memory taking lots of pictures of lots of old buildings.  Again we found a patio bar (Cafe del Toro), ordered cocktails and appetizers, and (you guessed it) all was right with the world.  We watched the Astronomical  Clock chime in the new hour; quite the spectacle and a definite crowd pleaser.  We also took a quick tour of the city on an open-top tour bus, rode our first European subway, and had dinner at U Fleku (don't worry about trying to pronounce the name, this is a strange language!).  After several beers and Becherovka (a very herbal and sweet liquor), we headed back to our hotel via the Vltava River walkway, meandered through some very dark and seedy alleys (I think I saw the vampire Lestat in one of the dark corners) and EVENTUALLY, made it back. 

More to report later; can you picture 40,000 skeletons?
From Tish, posted via Kathy

Sunday, September 4, 2011

"75 Steps + 10"





The Girls have arrived in Prague and we Skyped with each other this morning, they were just getting ready to go out for the evening. They have connected with Christopher (Julieannes brother from Germany) and all looked rested and eager for a night out.













They advised me that though their hotel is very nice and accommodating, they have a little issue, whereas they have to climb 75 steps from ground level to their room and then another 10 steps from their main floor to their bedroom.....hmmmm suppose all the beer won't matter, they can certainly work this off now!!

So have a few more girls:)

Oh, by the way, the view from their room is spectacular!!













This posting via Kathy in California.

See you soon girls, save some beer for moi!

Kathy

Friday, September 2, 2011

3 Broads to Prague

Funny thing about saying goodbye......they're are never easy for me, call me silly, but I am just wired like that:(

Today we start our split off's..........Linda, Tish and Julieanne left this afternoon for Prague.  We shall see them next Thursday (Paris time).   They have all worked hard to get ready for this leg of the trip, so we wish them well.

Now the rest of us have got to get ourselves together and ready, so instead of playing on the boat all weekend, we will divide our time to a little sailing and the rest organizing and that dreaded thing called....PACKING:(

Kathy



Thursday, September 1, 2011

The Eve for Three on the Trip

Bidder sweet to say goodbye to 3 of the "Broads", as Linda, Tish and Julieanne leave tomorrow for Prague, while the rest of us wrestle with packing and planning for Paris and South of France adventure of the trip.

We wish them smooth travel and our hearts are with them on this portion of the journey and we can't wait to see them again.

Nancy, bless her heart,  is taking them to LAX tomorrow (afternoon drive traffic).

Susan and I will meet them in Paris on Thursday in the late morning, Karen and Amelia will meet up later that night.

Can't wait wait for them to update us thru the weekend and will post as I receive the text's.

The adventure begins!

Kathy